The Golden Tooth, London N16: ‘The cheese tart alone makes this destination dining’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Grace Dent's review in The Guardian hails The Golden Tooth in London N16 as a significant culinary evolution for chef Matthew Scott and wine merchant Charlie Carr, the duo previously behind the 'scrappy, chaotic' Papi in London Fields. Located on Green Lanes, this pub and restaurant, just 10 minutes from Canonbury station, marks Scott's transition from his earlier experimental pop-up 'Hot 4 U' and the 'archly cool' Papi, to a more 'cool, clear, adult direction' in his cooking. The Golden Tooth, despite initially underselling itself as 'merely a pub that did food,' offers a sophisticated menu featuring dishes like Hereford wing-rib with smoked bone marrow bordelaise, hogget chops with hot mint, and Sussex sheep’s milk ricotta dumplings. Dent particularly extols the 'wobbly, voluminous slice of cheese tart,' declaring it alone makes The Golden Tooth 'destination dining.' Carr's influence is evident in the low-intervention, micro-producer-friendly wine list, complementing Scott's refined yet unpretentious approach to British cuisine.