4
Following Troubadour’s recent Michelin star designation, I booked a reservation to see how they transition from their daytime bakery setup into a full evening tasting menu. The concept of a married couple running an artisan bakery by day and an elevated bistro by night is a really interesting dynamic.
While I was seated promptly at 5:30 PM, the seating arrangement was a bit of a disappointment. I was placed at a two-chair counter that faces completely away from the main dining room. The only view from these seats is of the espresso machine and the coffee drinks menu on the wall. During the entire experience I kept wishing I had been seated at a table, especially since I noticed another solo diner who came in right before me was given a nice table next to the window. It would be incredibly helpful if the reservation system let you know beforehand whether you are booking a table or counter seat.
The bistro itself is very nicely decorated. I absolutely loved their use of repurposed plate ware and cups; they are strikingly beautiful and do a wonderful job complementing the appearance of the dishes. I also appreciated their use of real washcloths in the restroom instead of wasting paper towels. The wait staff was very friendly and accommodating throughout the evening. The music choice was a bit surprising for a tasting menu, though—it was a mix of contemporary hip-hop and some new-age tracks, which felt a little disjointed rather than cohesive.
The opening bites were all very good, and the overall pacing of the meal was great, with the entire experience lasting exactly 90 minutes. Since their primary background is in baking, it was no surprise that the dough and pastry elements were outstanding. There was a double shell on the tartare tartlet as seen in the photo, and I wasn't sure if it was intentional or an oversight, but it still had an elegant base. The warm canapés had a great textural crunch, and the bread selection tray was a real highlight, offering a variety of excellent crusts and crumb styles paired with a beautifully molded flower butter medallion.
The chef himself delivered a couple of the dishes and described the background and elements of each dish, which was a fantastic personal touch. The rest of the courses showed a lot of technical skill:
The Smoked Mt Lassen Trout was pristine, and it was the seaweed crisps served alongside it that had a bit of sweetness, providing a perfect balance. It left a really pleasant aftertaste.
The Artichoke Barigoule was unique and elegant, beautifully arranged on a vintage floral plate with a smooth bavarois base and thinly shaved turnip and radish disks.
The SF Bay Halibut "Brandade" was outstanding. The fish was cooked beautifully, and the sauce pooled inside the dish was absolutely incredible.
Because of my dietary restrictions, the kitchen was incredibly accommodating. They effortlessly swapped out the standard duck course for a beef alternative, which was cooked to a perfect medium-rare and tasted excellent without slowing down the timing of the meal.
The dessert was a fantastic finish. The Black Forest Gâteau was a wonderful deconstruction, highlighted by a fantastic house-made cherry sorbet that cut right through the rich chocolate and crumble base. The meal concluded with a trio of mignardises—a sweet blueberry pâte de fruit, a delicate mini-madeleine dusted with cherry powder, and a final chocolate truffle cube with candied citrus that was absolutely delicious and creamy.
The food at Troubadour easily explains their new Michelin star. If they can make the seating options clearer during booking, the guest experience will fully match the excellent output coming from the kitchen.
