Zylia, London W1: ‘It’s not trying to reimagine Greek-Cypriot cuisine’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Grace Dent reviews Zylia, a newly opened Greek-Cypriot taverna in Covent Garden, London, praising its authentic, unpretentious approach to traditional cuisine. Despite being new, the restaurant successfully cultivates the atmosphere of a long-established, family-run eatery, evoking a sense of nostalgia for classic Greek island tavernas. The decor is described as pale, humbly furnished, and deliberately homespun, contributing to this '62-year-old' feel. Dent highlights that Zylia isn't attempting to reinvent or modernize Greek-Cypriot dishes but rather focuses on delivering well-executed, comforting classics. The review mentions a range of traditional offerings including taramasalata, souvlaki, spanakopita, kleftiko, and kaimaki ice-cream, suggesting a comprehensive menu of beloved staples. The overall impression is one of genuine hospitality and a commitment to traditional flavors, making it a welcome addition to London's dining scene for those seeking an authentic Greek-Cypriot experience.