Kawan, London W1: ‘This dish is bound to work, we think. But it doesn’t. It’s hideous’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Grace Dent's review for The Guardian delivers a scathing critique of Kawan, the new London W1 restaurant opened by Malaysian comedian Nigel Ng, better known by his YouTube alter ego, Uncle Roger. Despite Ng's massive online following of over 10 million subscribers, built on his persona as a connoisseur of exemplary fried rice and a vocal critic of dishes like Jamie Oliver's take on the classic, his foray into the restaurant business appears to be a significant misstep. Dent describes the dining experience as akin to being shown 'a succession of phones showing memes you don’t understand,' indicating a profound disconnect and lack of enjoyment. The review highlights a particular unnamed dish as 'hideous,' underscoring the poor quality of the food served. The article implicitly questions whether a celebrity's online popularity, even one centered on food, can translate into a successful and critically acclaimed restaurant, suggesting that Kawan fails to deliver on the culinary expectations set by its founder's persona.